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The archive shelving inside the Padova atelier
The archive shelving in the Padova atelier — fourteen thousand swatches, alphabetised by mill.

Cloth Archive

Fourteen thousand swatches, alphabetised by hand.

A working reference, not a catalogue. Every bolt, sample, and discontinued length the studio has kept since 1968 — kept on the same shelves, in the same folders, and consulted before every commission.

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How to use this page

The four questions a cutter asks first.

A commission begins long before shears touch cloth. The first conversation is always the same: when will it be worn, where will it be worn, what weight is appropriate, and what hand do you remember. The filters below mirror that conversation.

01

Weight

From 180 g/m four-ply for an August wedding to 460 g/m whipcord for a northern winter. Weight is the first thing a cutter eliminates; everything else follows.

02

Season

Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter are not marketing seasons here — they describe a cloth's weave, openness, and lining behaviour. We keep them separate on the shelf.

03

Mill

Four mills anchor the archive: Loro Piana, Holland & Sherry, Drago, and Dormeuil. Each is kept by weight family so a cutter can locate a familiar face in under a minute.

04

Composition

Wool, wool-and-mohair, wool-silk-linen blends, cotton and linen for shirts, rare cashmere flannels for the colder commissions. Composition governs drape and crease recovery.

On curation

A cutter's tool, not a warehouse.

The archive exists for one reason: to give the next commission a wider vocabulary than the last one. We keep cloths we have used, cloths we have been offered, and cloths we have chosen to remember — including bolts that have been discontinued for thirty years. A swatch on a shelf is a decision a future commission might thank us for. We have never ordered a swatch because it would photograph well; we have cut from swatches that were already a decade old when the studio moved into this building.

Cloths are filed by mill, then by weight, then by season. There is no other taxonomy here. A client who returns after eleven years will find his 2014 Holland & Sherry chalkstripe exactly where he remembers it.

The mills we keep

Four houses, fourteen thousand swatches.

We do not carry every cloth these mills produce — we carry the cloths they produce that we would actually cut from. A note on what is kept from each, and why.

Loro Piana

Quarona & Rogna, full weight families

We keep the entire Loro Piana worsted and wool-and-mohair catalogue, including the Tasmanian Super 150s and the Zeland 14-micron flannels that the mill itself no longer runs as a permanent line. The Australian bale cloths are cut within four weeks of arrival.

Holland & Sherry

London Shrunk, since 1972

The oldest folders in the archive. Our 1972 Holland & Sherry swatch books — foxed, hand-annotated by Vettor Pisani Sr. — are still used when a client asks for a true London Shrunk worsted in a weight we no longer cut every season.

Drago

Biella flannels & frescoes

Drago supplies the bulk of our high-twist summer cloths and the soft Biella flannels that clients return to commission after commission. We keep the entire weight ladder from 220 g/m up, plus dead-stock samples from the 1990s.

Dormeuil

Amadeus, Tonik, dead-stock

We keep the Dormeuil Amadeus and Tonik series as a parallel track for clients who ask for a heavier English drape than the Italian mills provide. A small drawer of discontinued Dormeuil cloths — including a 1980s mohair-silk blend — remains on the shelf for special commissions.

14,000 Swatches on the shelf, in 240 hand-labelled folders.
38 kg The total weight of the archive in cloth and cardboard.
4 Mills anchored in the collection: Loro Piana, Holland & Sherry, Drago, Dormeuil.
1968 The year the oldest folders in the archive were cut. Every swatch remains accessible.

A private appointment

The cloth is seen, touched, and chosen in Padua.

Browse this page for a sense of what we keep. To commission, the swatches are pulled from the shelf, held against the light, and discussed across the cutting table during a private consultation.